Mumbai Flooding - Aug. 2017

We're at the tail end of monsoon so the last of the rains is upon us and it's usually a burst of storms here and there. But the last 48 hours have seen such heavy rainfall that we received 11 inches in just nine hours.  With the city sitting at sea level and high tide approaching, cyclone warnings were also given.

Lots of streets have flooded, some waist deep; flights were cancelled, trains suspended, and traffic gridlocked all over the city as roads were impassable. My school held buses to the south of the city and called back buses that had left for the suburbs. Nearly 150 students spent the night at school with teachers and staff also unable to get home. Check out #MumbaiRains on Twitter.

I was lucky in that it only took me three hours to get home, although much of that was sitting traffic on ankle to knee deep water clogged roads. I gave a lift to some colleagues that live nearby and we kept our spirits high marveling at how every day mumbaikars (people from Mumbai) stepped up to take care of one another. 

Locals were helping to direct traffic while others were handing out water bottles and snacks. Many hotels and all of the Sikh temples opened their doors to those stranded.

Social media has been a life saver for many as people from different parts of Mumbai have been tweeting #RainHosts to offer shelter in their homes to those who've been stranded. Emergency numbers and updates have been circulated on Whatsapp and Facebook as well. 

Stuck in traffic

Making a snack run for vada pav (fried potato ball sandwich)

Flood Feasting! (and yes, I'm driving!)

Residents walking home as trains, buses, taxis, and rickshaws are stopped

flooded streets

I know I've got a lot of catching up to do, much has happened over the last year. But rest assured, I'm in Mumbai another year or so. 

Here's another glimpse of what keeps me in Mumbai.

Yes, I know, it's been a long time since I've posted anything...so here's a little glimpse until I have time for a proper update. 

India from Neal Howland on Vimeo.

Trimming palm branches and lowering bunches of coconuts. 

Five stories up with nothing but rope.

His hand sickle hung on the tree as he wedges himself around.

My heart racing just watching. 

I think he might be stuck 😳

Sitting over coffee with friends, our conversation gets drowned out by the increasing honking on the street. One car, in the wrong direction on a one way street, is blocking all the traffic heading the correct way.

"What an idiot," I remark, "if he missed the signs coming in, clearly all the oncoming traffic would be a clue he's going the wrong way."

To which my Indian friend responds, "But he has perseverance, so he'll get through."

Cultural perspective at its finest.

I don't drink and drive, but I also don't speak Hindi. So while driving home tonight, I was stopped at a police checkpoint where I calmly rolled down my window for the officer. She stuck her head in my window, said something, then turned her cheek. So I simply assumed they were checking for alcohol and responded by exhaling a large breath into her face.

Apparently, that's not what she had asked because she turned to look at me rather perturbed and said, 'nom nom' - I think. I suddenly realized my mistake, apologized, and then immediately laughed out loud, at which point, she just waved me on so I left.

I laughed all the way home at the absurdity of it all - breathing in her face, laughing out loud, and somehow any of that convincing her I was actually sober.

I can honestly say that in all my days - from a child running barefoot and shirtless through fields and woods; to impromptu camping and teenage road trips; to hitchhiking, hanging out in dive bars and underground parties; or even to always having to clean up dead critters from the 200 year old basement out on the farm - never, NEVER have I ever felt as dirty - truly, hygienically dirty - until I fell in a hole today in India.

Monsoon....no thunder, no lightning, just constant downpour.

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You Just Got Youngstown-ed

Various random dudes are always hanging out inside my building gate. Some are drivers, some are occasionally relatives of the  'guard' (he's more of a watchman who doesn't watch anything), and some are...honestly, I don't know.

So today I get home and it's no watchman and three dudes I've never seen before, one in a shiny urban getup with a wad of cash in his hands that he's counting up and doling out to the other two. 

I'd not mind so much if I didn't have to stand around calling for the watchman, who was nowhere to be found, while these three eyeball me. So I ask if they've got the key - nope. I ask if they're drivers - nope. I ask if they're working in the building - nope. Watchmen from a neighboring building? - nope. Just hanging out, shuffling cash, chilling out like baby gundas (mobsters/narquitos).

Well, today was not their day because this lady tossed them all out and shut the gate. And that is how you school a fool. 

Day Ride to Lonavala

One of the best ways to 'survive' living in Mumbai, they say, is to get out of Mumbai whenever you have the opportunity. 

And one of the best ways to 'get away from it all', is a road trip with friends. Well, if you're lucky enough, those friends also ride motorcycles. 

And if you're in India, THE motorcycle to ride is a Royal Enfield. 

Winding up the Western Ghats

Best Roadside Vada Pav 

  

mashed potato and veg deep fried and served on a bread roll

So good they even made the papers!

Soooo good!

I don't usually post much about my job (which I love), but here's a little promo of a TV channel airing a special just on us. 

This coming weekend CNBC TV 18  will be airing a 30-minute feature entitled Centerstage with ASB. Our Superintendent, Craig Johnson will share the important role all schools must play in preparing its students for a rapidly changing world and highlight the ways ASB is embracing this challenge. I thought you might like to tune in. The show aired on Saturday, February 20th at 4:30 pm and on Sunday, February 21st at 4:00 pm. Attached is a promotional trailer for the show.

And here's the broadcast in its entirety. 

Nothing like stepping out of my building in middle class Mumbai to find 20 retired, American, white ladies standing on my street taking photos of the buildings, here on a tour from DC and come to visit their tour guide's mother who apparently is my neighbor.

They were pleasantly surprised to find me, too.

Cultural Perspective

Chatting a friend about parents and he says, "Oh, my mom's a cow."

I pause...and override my instant reaction of horror into curiosity. That phrase must mean something different here.

He sees the confusion and clarifies, "It's a compliment. Cows are calm and beautiful. That's my mom."

I smile and simply advise him not to use that compliment for people outside of India.  

Sunday Morning Stroll

I've been so busy these last few months that I haven't posted much. There's been a lot going on at work (you can see the latest show I directed here) and a lot in my life in general. Throw in a neck injury and some physio, and this blog gets pushed to the bottom of my list of priorities (sorry folks!)

You'll be glad to know I'm on the mend and have signed on for another school year in Mumbai...with an inkling maybe a little more. 

But you, my vicarious travelers, have never left my mind. So here's a few shots from my morning walk today. Enjoy! 

Early in the morning, with all the windows wide open to let the cool Mumbai 'winter' breeze flow through the apartment, I can lie in my hammock and imagine the train rushing by to be a small waterfall, the cooing pigeons to be sweet doves, and the occasional bicycle bell to be a chickadee, and it's almost as if I'm not in the midst of a city of 22 million. 

Almost. 

Not A Word

Receptionist: Are you furlop?
Me: What?
Receptionist: Are you furlop or new patient?
Me: What is a furlop?
Receptionist: Furlop is returning patient to the doctor.
Me: Well, why not just say that since 'furlop' isn't a word.
Receptionist: We use furlop. So are you furlop?
Me: No, I'm a returning patient. 

Much to my mother's dismay, I have never been ladylike or dainty. Always a tomboy, into fast motorcycles, punk rock and skateboards, I've always been more comfortable talking politics and history over centerpieces and curtains.

But it only takes one rat to run under my chair at a coffee shop, and every ounce of an exaggerated, cartoon female escapes me!

(Yes, that's me in the corner, hands flailing over my head, feet tucked onto my seat, and squealing)

Mumbai Driving Tip: To see the missing manhole cover, look for upside down palm trees.

Why, yes, I love spending my morning commute going in circles and making U-turns arguing with the driver who tells me only, 'I know every route.' 

And apparently this morning, I'm going to see them all.

Today, my Scottish colleague said something to me and I didn't understand a word of it. He repeated it again, so I cocked my head and squinted my eyes trying to comprehend. Then he said it again and again and again...the whole sentence, then just the one word, then louder...you get the idea. Then I'm sure he swore at me as I fell into fits of uncontrollable laughter at the absurdity of the whole thing.